Saturday 31 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14: Days 26 - 31

The last round-up of MMMay'14 documentation photos. I can't believe the month is over! It's flown by.  Come back in a day or two for my thoughts on this year's challenge.


Day 26:
Me-mades:
Bird print jersey top (not blogged)
Second hand cardi as per my pledge



Day 27:
Me-mades:
Second hand cardi as per my pledge
Captain jacket (not in shot)

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib



Day 28:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket (not in shot)



Day 29:
Me-mades:
Mustard trousers (finally refitted!)
Captain jacket (not in shot)

Dolores wears nothing mum-made but wanted to be in the pic (probably)



Day 30 (Stash fabric day of the Flickr group's photo challenge, so here's most of mine):
Me-mades:
Captain jacket (not in shot)

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib



Day 31:
Me-mades:


Captain jacket (not in shot)


The End! 

Thanks so much for all your lovely comments throughout this year's challenge. I'll be writing my summary of the MMMay'14 experience in a couple of days. I'd love to hear how you found the challenge if you took part.

Tuesday 27 May 2014

Tutorial: How to Pattern Hack Coco for Breastfeeding/Nursing


So this tutorial is only going to be of use for a small minority of sewers. However, like my maternity top pattern tutorial, you may wish to bookmark it for the future! ;-) Over the last seven months I've found that attempting to dress in a stylish and comfortable way for breastfeeding/nursing can be a total pain in the arse/impossible. This is especially true if, like me, you prefer to make your own clothing rather than buy mass manufactured garments. Here's a way to adapt your favourite jersey top pattern, for example the Tilly and the Button's Coco which I've used here, for breast feeding functionality.


The basic concept of this pattern hack is to create an elasticated overlap of fabric at the boob area. In this top (or dress if you're making that version) you can discreetly 'gain access' without needing to lift up your whole garment, yank your neckline down or fiddle with any buttons or zips. You remain well covered which is a major bonus if, like me, you feel the cold or you don't enjoy exposing lots of flesh. Plus you also don't need to wear a vest layer underneath either, which I've been concerned about now we are approaching warm weather. This is an awesome answer to those two climate conundrums! 


My modesty prevents me from modelling it's full function so here's my dress form instead to give you a proper idea!:



Pattern prep:

A note about sizing: This pattern hack works on close fitting garments, so you may want to consider sewing a size smaller than you otherwise would, or take in the side seams a bit half way through your make. If you are in between sizes on the Coco pattern, definitely go for the smaller one.  

Step 1:

Trace the front pattern piece for whichever Coco view you are planning to make, transferring the notches and any useful markings from the original pattern.



Step 2:

Cut the front pattern piece out and hold it up to your body in front of a mirror (sorry you'll have to imagine this bit in your head as doing it plus taking a photo at the same time proved impossible!). You will need to make two small marks on your pattern in pencil:
1) the top of your breast, roughly where the top edge of your bra cup sits (don't worry, this doesn't have to be super accurate, this line will be hidden).
2) your 'empire line', about 3/4 down your breast (more flattering than a line that hits right underneath your breast).



Step 3:

Draw lines through your marks that extend across the front pattern piece. The lines need to be at right angles to the centre front.



Step 4:

Make two new pattern pieces by tracing round your front pattern piece:

1) For the first, trace round the top part of the front pattern piece to the lower of the two lines you just drew. Add 1cm (3/8") seam allowance below the lower line. Cut the piece out. This is the new pattern piece is the upper front pattern piece and is pictured on the left below.

2) For the second, trace round the bottom part of the front pattern piece to the upper of the two lines you just drew. Add 1cm (3/8") seam allowance above the upper line. Cut the piece out. This is the new pattern piece is the lower front pattern piece and is pictured on the right below.



Step 5:

Add a notch on each of your new pattern pieces at the side seams where the other piece finishes (minus the seam allowance you added). These notches will help with the construction of the garment. You should be just be able to see them in the picture below to see what I mean:


Now cut out your pattern pieces in fabric as you usually would, replacing the original front pattern piece with your new upper and lower front pattern pieces.


Applying the elastic to the fabric pieces:

This stage should be completed after cutting the fabric pattern pieces out but before garment construction ensues.

Step 6:

Lay the fabric upper front piece wrong side up on a table. Leaving extra clear elastic over the edge of the side seam, pin one end of elastic to the bottom edge of the pattern piece (pictured below). Being careful not to stretch the elastic NOR allow it to be too loose, lay the elastic along the bottom edge and pin in place at the other end, once again leaving extra clear elastic over the edge of the side seam.



Step 7:

Marking with a pin, pen or whatever method you prefer, make the elastic 1cm (3/8") shorter and re-pin to the lower edge. As you can see in the picture below, the elastic will now not quite lie flat against the fabric.



Step 8:

Slightly pulling the elastic as you go so no pleats or tucks appear, baste the elastic along the bottom edge of the upper front piece by stitching down the centre of the clear elastic with a straight stitch. Then fold the 1cm (3/8") seam allowance up, encasing the elastic, and stitch using your preferred stretch stitch (I've used a three-step zigzag here).



Step 9:

Repeat Steps 6, 7 and 8 to apply elastic to the top edge of the lower front piece, HOWEVER make the elastic 2cms shorter in length than the top edge (unlike the 1cm you shortened the elastic on the upper front piece). The elastic applied to these edges prevents them from gapping as long as the overall top is a snug fit. The elastic on the upper front edge isn't quite as tight as the elastic on the lower front piece because a gathered effect on the upper front piece is less desirable as it would be more visible.


Garment Construction:

Now you can continue the construction of your garment as per the pattern instructions using the upper front piece instead of the old front piece to complete the shoulder seams, neckline/collar finishing and sleeve head insertion.



Step 10:

When you are ready to stitch your sleeve seams and side seams (usually done in the same process), you need to bring your lower front piece to the party. Lay the lower front piece face down on top of the upper front piece so they create an overlap. This is where those little notches to made in the side seams really help you to align the pieces correctly.



With the sleeve and side seams stitched, now would be a really good time to pop the garment on and see how it's fitting. As I've said before, the overlap will only function well and look nice and gape-free if the fit of the garment is quite snug. If it looks like it might be gaping, pinch in the side seams to see how much extra needs to be removed from the side seams. Withe the fit perfected, you can finish the construction of your garment.

Now you're ready for a hungry baby!


Sunday 25 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14: Days 20 - 25


Day 20:
Me-mades:



Day 21:
Me-mades:

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib



Day 22:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket (not in shot)



Day 23:
Me-mades:
Second hand cardi worn as top
Captain jacket (not in shot)

Dolores wears: mum-made leopard print trousers



Day 24:
Me-mades:
Second hand cardi as per my pledge



Day 25:
Me-mades:
Second hand cardi as per my pledge

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib


Thursday 22 May 2014

MMMay'14 Sewing Patterns Giveaway with Dresses & Me and Jennifer Lauren Vintage



Ah dear friends, the end of another awesome MMMay is in sight, but there's still time for one more celebratory giveaway. Hurrah! This giveaway is open to participants and non-participants alike, and you could win both a sewing pattern of your choice from Dresses & Me AND the amazing Afternoon Blouse pattern (pictured below) by Jennifer Lauren Vintage. How good is that?!


Personally, I'd choose the Madeleine skirt pattern (pictured below) from the Dresses & Me site. It'd go so nicely with the Afternoon blouse don't you think?! Head over to this post on Jen's blog to find out how to enter. Good luck! 


Monday 19 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14: Days 14 - 19


Day 14:
Me-mades:
Back leggings (too worn out to wear outside the house!)
Customised cardi which I plan to blog about soon

Dolores wears: mum-made leopard print trousers



Day 15:
Me-mades:
Same customised cardi as the previous day
Captain jacket (not in shot)



Day 16:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket when I went out
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 



Day 17
Me-mades:
Bird print jersey top not interesting enough to blog about 
Captain jacket (not in shot)

Dolores wears: mum-made leopard print trousers



Day 18:
Me-mades:



Day 19:
Me-mades:

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib

Thursday 15 May 2014

MMMay'14 Vintage Pattern Giveaway with The Polished Button

***THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS FOR ENTERING***



The weekly #MMMay14 celebration giveaway continue.... Like last week's giveaway, this one is open to everyone, not just participants of the challenge.

So we are half way through MMMay'14 now, have you discovered some holes in your self-stitched wardrobe that could be filled with the help of a lovely vintage sewing pattern? Even if you're not taking part in the challenge this year, which pattern would help you make something special that perhaps you'd like to show off during MMMay'15? ;-)


The Prize:

Your choice of vintage sewing pattern from the amazing inventory at The Polished Button. What's not to like about that?!


How to Enter:

Go to the Patterns section of The Polished Button's website and find a pattern you'd like to own. Leave a comment on this post including the link to the pattern you've chosen, why you've chosen it (because I'm nosey!) plus your email address if I can't find it within a couple of mouse clicks. Email addresses will only be used to contact you if you are the lucky winner of this giveaway. Leave your comment before midnight GMT on Thursday 22nd May. The following day I'll pick a winner by random number generator and contact the lucky individual who will receive their pattern completely free of charge.

Tuesday 13 May 2014

Me-Made-May'14: Days 8 - 13

So we're half way through MMMay'14 now. If you're taking part, how's your challenge going? Are you finding illuminating? Surprising? Too easy? A struggle? If you are finding that your personal challenge is the latter (actually even if you're not), you should check out this awesome, thoughtful and timely post by Jen of Jennifer Lauren Vintage on how to make the most of your handmade wardrobe.

In the meantime, here's some more pics of me with no makeup, just what you've been waiting for...



Day 8:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket when I went out
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib



Day 9:
Me-mades:
Skirtain
Captain jacket when I went out
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 

Dolores wears: mum-made leopard print trousers



Day 10:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket when I went out
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib




Day 11, hanging with the legend that is Miss Demeanour:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket (not in shot)



Day 12:
Me-mades:
Captain jacket when I went out
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 



Day 13:

Me-mades:
Captain jacket (not in shot)
Second hand cardi, as per my pledge 

Dolores wears: mum-made dribble bib


Saturday 10 May 2014

Leopard Print Baby Trousers


I'm not going to write a blog post every time I make Dolores a pair of trousers or leggings, but I thought that these turned out pretty special so I wanted to share them. Behold the awesomeness!!!


I used the same reworked pattern that produced these trousers and some leopard print jersey that had been 'a lingering too long in the old stash. The blue leopard print was actually left overs from a skirt I made myself in my first year of university back in 1999! 


Two of the four pairs are actually for Dolores's friend Ezrah. You can see them hanging out together in the picture above, Ez rocking his trews. Ezrah's mum and dad were very kind in letting Pat, Dolores and myself stay over night at theirs, and it was generally agreed that limited-edition leopard baby trousers make a better gift for your host than a bunch of flowers or box of chocs!


Thursday 8 May 2014

MMMay'14 Sewing Pattern Giveaway with Indie Stitches

***THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. THANKS FOR ENTERING***



I am very excited to announce the second weekly giveaway celebrating Me-Made-May'14! This week's giveaway is open to everyone, not just #MMMay'14 participants, and you can win a sewing pattern of your choice from Indie Stitches. The giveaway is hosted here on Jen's blog so head over there for full details.


Oh and I know you were just about to ask me, 'Zoe, what independent sewing pattern company's pattern would you choose, if you were allowed to enter?'. On a self-less tip, I'd go for the Jedediah Pants by Thread Theory to make for Mr So, Zo (AKA Pat). He's recently got into creating himself a new look and has even set himself up a Pinterest board to help him harvest ideas (!), and I think this pattern would fit the bill.
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